December 7
This post will not be done tonight. Because I’m already breaking all the rules, it’s late and I have to get up early and look sharp tomorrow. A few days of vacation can pile up a helluva Wed-Thu-Fri.
I’ll start by saying that although it was enormous fun, Amsterdam is – of course – more than what your average 25yr old can figure at a glance. I’ve never been keen on going, not badly. Because of all those stories I’ve heard about the coffeeshops and the Red Light District. And how much fun can that be? The coffeeshops are very still, there’s usually no free wi fi (and as a Romanian gal, I hate paying for internet), no real interest to chat up the other coffeeshoppers, so what’s the point? Weed is not an attraction in and of itself. As for the Red Light Districts of Amsterdam… well… imagine the fun…
So I left Amsterdam as a half-thought, a “perhaps”. But… the day came, opportunity arose, and as it usually finds me in a seated position, behind my Grandfather-of-laptops (tablet, please), I made a phone call, bought two tickets, and off we went.
We hit the RLD first thing, because we landed late and the Dam is the center of attraction (on most of the tourist maps we were provided with). We walked from the Dam to the first coffeeshop, then seemingly unaffected, continued bar hopping, street after lurid street. Then pub-pint-pub-pint-pub-scotch. I’m a fan of English pubs. Me and my friend, R, we both are. Not admittedly, but our actions speak for us.
But I won’t take it chronologically, it makes little sense that way. I’ll take it the way I felt it: the Amsterdam experience would have, perhaps, come and gone without much fanfare. Fun times were had, and that could have been that. It just so happens that it mingled with Truman Capote’s In Cold Blood, which I’d been carrying around with me all November. By the time I was taking in the poetry of legal prostitution, which is as much red as neon-lit, my companions, Perry Smith and Dick Hickock, were already on death row. Oh boy, does this stop happening? Everywhere I travel I carry books with me (way easier now with the Kindle), but it changes the experience. Because I’m so hungry to read, so happy to have this unbelievable amount of time on my hands that I sometimes neglect the experience itself. I forget why I’m there.
But the truth is: sometimes… that’s why I’m there.
I won’t get into the ethics of it, legalisation is a good thing, and of course it turns out that it’s not that profitable, not when there are taxes to be paid and little social renown to be had. So, in fact, he RLD is dying, or looks to be. And it’s owned by foreigners. No respectable Dutch men or women put their names on the businesses that are run there.
But enough about it before my little feminist (I have a lot of little -ists in me…) starts with this one.
Then we visit the Anne Frank house. Where she lived in hiding. Which was a warehouse, really. They made jam.
So I top the short trip with a canal cruise and Joan Didion’s “The Year of Magical Thinking”.
Amsterdam was not an intoxicating experience, but a sobering one.
And now I have to stop, get up, and go to bed. To be continued.
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Later
I spent the entire flight back reading Joan Didion’s 250 page autobiographical book charting a year starting with five(ish) days prior to her husband’s death. I don’t remember how I stumbled upon Joan Didion, but it was not long ago. I bought the book in September (I think) and started it a about half an hour after I was done with Capote.
This is generally bad. Not bad, but not recommended. There should be time to process between experiences. Time to process Amsterdam, time to process a book, time to process the neon lights and the gaudy outfits, time to process dating, movies, friends, love, loss, joy. There should be time to enjoy what is beautiful and sad and wonderful, lest it become overwhelming. But I have none of that time. So perhaps I hurry into things. It’s become (or has it always been) a personality trait (?). It changes the perception.
Back to Joan. The 250 pages were still raw. 40 years spent loving this man. Many of these 40 years were spent close – real close. The type of closeness we may ignorantly raise an eyebrow to.
And then it’s gone. And the survivor is left with little else but memories. And a daughter. And a life lived.
I put down “The Year of Magical Thinking”, which records the year 2001 and fast forward to 2009. Blue Nights. Which was shorter but just as harrowing.
I cried on the airplane, I cried when reading “Blue Nights”. Let me slightly correct that. I did not cry on the airplane. Whenever it got overpowering I blew my nose in a napkin and looked up at the small light bulb. Closed my eyes. Breathed.
Focused on Amsterdam. Van Gogh. Anne Frank. Van Gogh. That didn’t help. Out the window. It is night and all I can discern are the lights on the wings of the plane.
If she is grieving the loss of a loved husband and that of a daughter, what was I empathizing with?
What fear was so closely connected to the strings that were struck while I was reading? I am not a mother. I am not – nor have I been – married. What could I possibly fear? Aside from the abstract fear that we all feel, of death, of loss. I never ever want to feel what she felt. I never ever want to experience such loss.
But then I realize. It’s so horribly obvious that I cringe.
Anne Frank wrote diaries. Anne Frank was a different person in her diaries than she was known by her father. Goes to show how little parents truly understand their children. And how could they? How can they… really? We hide from them. I know we all do, in various ways. We are, however, most ourselves, in whatever artistic expression our personalities grant us. Was I myself in my tragic, suicidal, angsty poems? I’m sure they better expressed my 14 year old self than my hi-howwasschool-fine-wait-gottagobye ever did.
But they never know us. Nor we them.
Not in the way that we come to know most people. Perhaps it is the love that blinds, binds and changes the perception. It allows us to exist, to survive, to thrive. Of course, we can better understand those closest to us if we ever took the time to observe beyond what we’ve seen and experienced. If we look beyond what we’ve come to know, beyond the routine, beyond those things which we take for granted.
It was my deepest darkest fear growing up that we are all lost and that no one holds any real answers (not even them), that everything has a caveat. My worst fear came true. Yet I’m still alive, still breathing, still trying for “happy.”
Will I not be able to understand my children? I write this and I know the answer. I will have them “all figured out”. And I will be clueless.
My fear?
My fear, the chord that resonated deep enough to make me stare at the light bulb and count my breaths? That made me close unto myself in the fetal position while reading the last paragraphs of Blue Nights?
My fear is that that is not the worst.
My worst fear is not that.
Should I, need I explain myself?
Van Gogh. I’m not a great fan. I don’t dislike his paintings, nor do I fall in love with them. Some of them stuck. But I’m not certain it was because I had a back story or because I earnestly appreciated the art.
Amsterdam was good to me. But so is anyplace. I saw Vermeer’s milkmaid, and Vermeer I love. I lost track of time in coffeeshops. And time is my enemy. I found Joan Didion. And dotted some i’s.
Dotting i’s is a favorite pastime.